By Karolina Oestlin

Lillehammer, the middle-sized Norwegian town, is probably best know for hosting the winter Olympics in 1994 and for its array of winter sports activities. But one does not have to be a professional skier to enjoy the town’s many facets.

When visiting Clarion Collection Hotel Hammer in Lillehammer, guests can combine skiing with a stay in the middle of the lively and typically cosy Norwegian town with its bars, restaurants and shops just outside. “A lot of people come visiting here because they know the place from the Olympics, but there are many other things to do as well,” says Hotel Manager Marianne Haraldsen.

For skiers, buses drive directly from the city centre to Hafjell skiing centre, where the women’s and men’s slalom were held in 1994, and lift cards can be bought at the hotel. The bob-sledge arena is another attraction, and for the kids, the Norwegian themed amusement park Hunderfossen with its fairytales and trolls may be an idea. Another very popular destination is Maihaugen open air history museum.

Hotel Hammer has 95 double rooms all located in the new part of the hotel built in 1991. Meanwhile the reception and dining room are a typical Norwegian timber walled building from 1865 allowing history and modern comfort to go hand in hand. The hotel offers a light dinner buffet and from three to six in the afternoon there are free waffles on the hotel’s DIY waffle set; a very popular treat for all guests, says Marianne.

For more details visit: www.choicehotels.no

Majestically located on the edge of Fefor Lake and surrounded by the peaks of Jotunheimen, the historic Fefor Mountain Hotel with its numerous outdoor activities provides magic settings for a peaceful ski holiday. The almost-130-year-old hotel lies 930 metres above sea level, but located in the middle of Norway it is still easily accessible.

“Fefor hotel is definitely one of the most special hotels in Norway,” enthuses Hotel Manager Kari Tagestad. “You really have to be up here fully to comprehend it; it is a very calm and very typical Norwegian area.”  Even though secluded, the hotel is just 13 minutes away from Vinstra’s train station, where you can be picked up the hotel’s bus, or a four hour drive from Oslo.

Magical mountain beauty

There are many ways to enjoy the mountain’s natural beauty and especially during the winter an array of activities for all ages and levels are on offer. Cross-country routes start just outside the hotel’s doors and for those who prefer alpine skiing, buses from the hotel will take them the ten minute ride to the slopes at Gudbrandsdalen. “If people want to go cross-country skiing we have one of the best locations in Norway and one of the longest ski trails. The air is very clean and we have spectacular nature around here,” says Tagestad. Put together, the area has 630 km of ski trails.

But it is not all about skiing. The hotel also has its own floodlit ice-skating rink and if you fancy a game of curling, this is also a possibility as Norway’s second curling club was started up here.

Meanwhile, from Gudbrandsdalen valley guests can experience magical dogsled drives or snow-shoe walks in the moonlight. The location of the hotel is also ideal for trips to the Rondane and Jotunheimen mountains, where literature lovers and hikers can follow in the steps of Henrik Ibsen’s Peer Gynt.

The history in the walls
Magic and adventure are not just outside at Fefor; the hotel itself contains its share. Founded all the way back in 1884, Fefor was one of the first hotels to be established at that altitude. Back then it was located a bit away from the current building in a small farm, but in 1891 the current timber-walled hotel was constructed. “The hotel has a lot of history, but the rooms have been newly renovated so it is a nice and comfortable place to stay too,” says Tagestad. “We use to say that the hotel has its own soul. There is so much history in the walls and everybody who stays here has had the same impression.”

Laidback comfort

The secluded location of Fefor hotel and its peaceful atmosphere ensures that a stay will be absolutely free of stress during both day and night. When back from the many outdoor activities, most guests kick back in either the restaurant, bar, library, or one of the cosy gathering rooms with crackling fireplaces, says Tagestad. “In the evening most people just relax because they are so tired from being out all day skiing. They like just to have a good dinner, lay back and maybe read a book or play a board game. It is not a party place, but we have a mix of guests here, both young couples and families.”

Guests can stay in one of the hotel’s 114 rooms of which 22 are family rooms or in one of the 20 timber cabins. The cabins have their own kitchens and all enjoy beautiful views of the lake and the surrounding mountains.

Of course a day inside does not have to mean lying on your back for hours and hours. To tempt you away from the fireplace, the hotel also has squash courts and, of course, an indoor swimming pool with a panoramic view.

All in all, it is hard not to take Tagestad at her word when she says: “It is really difficult to describe, you just have to come up here!”

For more details visit: www.fefor.no

In western Norway, though, there’s a rare exception. On a critically acclaimed CD released last year by Oslo-based surround-sound label 2L, string orchestra The Trondheim Soloists played Mozart Concertos with a rare combination of musical perfection and somehow innate ‘Norwegianness’. Listening to the ensemble’s pure, breezy performance could put you immediately in mind of clean air, endless views and the rigours of outdoor life.

“A tradition of Norwegian orchestral playing emerged in the last century which was very much connected to mountain folk music, and it was instilled in this orchestra by its founder,” explained Øyvind Gimse, the Trondheim Soloists’ Artistic Director, between performances at the city’s St Olav’s Festival in July. “It’s a very clear sound; if you’ve ever been up a Norwegian mountain in September or October, you’ll know how pure the air is. You can see for hundreds of miles.”

Then there’s the Hardanger Fiddle, a multi-string folk violin from this part of Norway, the thick, resonant voice of which employs overtones – sounds created from strings that aren’t bowed or plucked but resonate purely from the vibrations of other strings. These lend the Hardanger a spacious, almost outdoor feel. “If you cultivate the sound of those high overtones – harness their pureness – it sounds like ice or glass. It’s this clearer, more light, more open sound that’s one of our signatures,” says Øyvind.

Trondheim’s distinctive sunsets and collective disdain for authority are also behind the orchestra’s very energetic, no-nonsense sound, say its members – most of whom, vitally, were born in or near the city. When the ensemble tours England in October, audiences who’ve begun to miss the idiosyncratic sounds of French and German orchestras may well delight to hear this feisty little ensemble playing northern European music with a recognisably strong – and quite beautiful – Norwegian accent.

[The Trondheim Soloists and trumpeter Tine Thing Helseth perform music by Elgar, Britten and Grieg at London’s Cadogan Hall on 29 October (020 7730 4500 / cadoganhall.com), Canterbury Cathedral on 30 October (01227 452 853 / canterburyfestival.co.uk) and Leeds Town Hall on 31 October (0113 224 3801 / leedsconcerseason.com).]

The mountain of Ulriken at 643m is the highest of the seven mountains surrounding the city of Bergen. It holds a special place in the heart of many Bergensers, appearing in songs and literature and remaining ever-prominent for its great outdoor appeal, whether as a skiing or a hiking destination. In 1961 the Ulriken Cable Car was opened making the trek to the top that much easier to accomplish.

“Ulriken is not just a mountain with a great view for the citizens of Bergen, but an important landmark and recreational area for the locals,” says Eirik Hokstad, marketing manager for Ulriken643, a panoramic tour that takes in Ulriken and surroundings, starting out from Bergen´s fish market. Open year-round, the tour adjusts its contents and activities according to the seasons and there are many options to choose from. “The Ulriken643 Panaorama Tour starts by the fish market, where our characteristic double decker bus takes you to the lower station in approximately 15minutes,” Eirik continues. The cable car journey, in a so-called gondola, will take about 5 minutes, depending on the weather.

Each gondola, running every 7 minutes, can take 25 passengers to the top at once. On average 100,000 visitors have taken the panoramic tour over previous years, with an expected increase to 180,000 in 2010, making Ulriken one of the most popular sights in Bergen. Once  at the top, visitors can try their hand at some adventurous sports and while hitting the hiking trails remains a favourite activitity, there´s also abseiling, paragliding, climbing and archery for those brave enough. “We have a mountain shop and activity centre called Bergen Base Camp,” Eirik explains, “and our professional and trained staff will help you out there.”

If it´s just a good old-fashioned ramble in the mountains you´re after, this is perhaps the best spot in Bergen. 15 different walking trails, including circular routes, of varying degrees of difficulty and length, take in spectacular views of the district. “The most important facility here is of course the VIEW,” Eirik enthuses. “On clear days you can enjoy the sight of skerries, fjords, mountains and the open sea, not forgetting the city itself. The panoramic view is spectacular and unique, and the high mountain experience is tailor-made to give our visitors a taste of the real wild mountain life Bergen has to offer.”

It´s thirsty work wandering around the mountains, taking the air and enjoying the views, but as luck would have it there´s a restaurant at the top of Ulriken serving excellent grub. The sky:scraper panoramic restaurant is the highest in Bergen and the emphasis is fimrly on local food. There´s a handy kiosk where you can stock up on picnic food before your mountain ambles, a bar for sampling some high altitude drinks and an a la carte restaurant for 3-course dinners. Specialities include a delicious, warming mountain fish soup, a lovely way to end a day´s strenuous hiking, looking out over the splendid scenery.

Factbox:

The cable car runs 0900-2100 May – September and 0900-1700 October-April.

The Panorama tour from the Fish Market costs 195 NOK return.

The Ulriken cable car runs every 7 minutes.

For further info: www.ulriken643.no

First UK Rights

By Rikke Bruntse-Dahl

In 1896 Norway’s first prime minister, Christian Michelsen, decided to buy and develop what would become Solstrand Hotel & Bad. His idea was to create a holiday resort for the Bergen merchant-princes, so that “they could have a place to gather strength for their great deeds.”

Originally a fjordside holiday resort for the Bergen merchant aristocracy, Solstrand today welcomes business folk and leisure guests alike to its idyllic countryside location.

Pernille Schau-Larsen, who is the fourth generation Schau-Larsen to own and run Solstrand, emphasises that Michelsen’s vision still holds true today. Business and Solstrand still go hand in hand, and besides hosting high-profile meetings and team-building days, the hotel’s Norwegian Management Programme is a testament to that.

The Solstrand Experience

More than 50 years ago, Solstrand started collaborating with the School of Business and Commerce of Bergen. It was just after the Second World War and Norwegian companies needed to develop new managers with new ways of thinking, so the School developed an extensive three-week programme, the Norwegian Management Programme. This prestigious business leadership course has always been held at Solstrand. The main reason for this is the hotel’s beautiful location, which is only 30 kilometres from Bergen city and airport. In addition to the training itself, Solstrand is attractive for business people because just being there encourages socialising and relaxation.

Arne Selvik from The Norwegian School of Economics and Business Administration sings the praises of Solstrand: “Overa period of 57 years more than 4,000 Norwegian and international managers have enjoyed the outstanding qualities of Solstrand. Our faculty can always fully rely on first class service and support, saving valuable time and concentration for educational challenges in the programmes. Even through this period of financial setback we have a waiting list of top candidates, who want to join what is often referred to as The Solstrand Experience.”

A world of repose

However, Solstrand is also the perfect place for holiday guests who just want to go on a small retreat. People can easily spend a whole weekend at Solstrand without even noticing that anything of a work-related nature is happening there.

“In fact, whether you come for business or leisure, the stunning views of the fjord and the facilities here will simply make you relax,” Schau-Larsen says.

Norwegian journalist, Arnt Roger Aasen, confirms this. He calls Solstrand “an international phenomenon…[that] creates the good life 24/7 all year round.”

Solstrand’s uniqueness was already noted internationally in 1903, when English travel writer Charles W. Wood wrote: “If the English knew of this paradise they would spend many a summer there, revelling in the bathing and boating, all the marvels and splendours of nature which defy description. Above all, there was something infinitely restful and soothing and peaceful about Solstrand and the fjord; a world of repose.”

And spa indulgence

A present-day description of Solstrand’s qualities would mirror Charles W. Wood’s review perfectly. Although now it would definitely also include the new spa facilities as a major attraction.

Thirteen treatment rooms, a sauna, a steam bath, an ice pool and, best of all, windows facing the fjord and an outdoor pool all light and bright built using wood, glass and bronze. The typical Scandinavian minimalist design combined with Solstrand’s serenity and traditional Nordic bathing traditions makes for the ultimate Norwegian rural, fjord-side idyll.

Schau-Larsen, who grew up at Solstrand, says that after living, studying and working in other major European cities for nine years, she can now see how lucky she has been to spend her childhood in the beautiful and peaceful place that is Solstrand. She now fully understands why people around the world living busy lives really appreciate spending time at her home recharging their batteries. As nearly 85% of Norway’s hotels belong to a hotel chain, a family hotel of this calibre really is something rather unique for everyone involved.

www.solstrand.com

Just southeast of beautiful Bergen rests Norway’s second longest Fjord. Starting at the Atlantic Ocean, Hardangerfjord penetrates in a northeasterly direction until, 179 km (111 miles) inland, it meets the grand mountain plateau of Hardangervidda. With its striking contrast of snow-covered mountains, rich flora and fauna and deep blue water, it is easy to understand why so many of the romantic national symbols originate from here, including the Hardangerfiddle.

The area is known as the orchard of Norway, but perhaps most of all it is a popular destination for energising activities.

“One of the best things about Hardanger is the great variety of accommodation and activities on offer,” says Hans Jørgen Andersen, Managing Director of Destination Hardangerfjord. “From camping to first class hotels.” Located conveniently in the southwest, it only takes an hour to drive from Bergen or Haugesund.

The breathtaking views make it easy to just sit still and soak it all in. But for those who have action on their wish list, there is no limit to the amount of activity you can fit in: only your energy levels will decide. Starting with the fjord itself, you can go for a boat ride, rent a kayak, learn about boatbuilding at the Hardanger Museum Wharf (www.fartoyvern.no), go fishing or explore a modern salmon farm (www.akvasenter.no), the only one open to the public in Norway. Back on dry land, do not miss the largest mountain plateau in Norway, Hardangervidda, where you can take part in one of many mountain trips, alone or with a guide. “What is so interesting for foreign visitors is that the national parks are accessible,” says Andersen. “You can go camping in the wild and, after buying a license, go fishing and hunting as much as you like.”

Well worth a visit is Norway’s most popular waterfall Vøringsfossen, the twin waterfall Låtefossen and the romantic Steinsdalsfossen. Open both summer and winter is The Majestic Folgefonna, Norway’s third biggest glacier where you can make guided hikes, ice-climb, or ski in the summer sun. Finally, do not leave Hardanger without trying its famous fruit which has made mouths water for generations, free to taste at one of the farms in Lofthus and Ulvik.

“I can also recommend organizing conferences or events here if you want to impress your clients,” says Andersen. “You can tailor your own trip, for example meetings followed by helicopter sight-seeing, glacier hikes, summer skiing, fishing, hiking and much more. The clients are always satisfied,” he smiles.

A bit of an expert when it comes to adventures is OpplevOdda. Its population almost halved in 2003 because the factories went bankrupt, but today tourism and businesses are finding their way back. Situated between Hardangervidda, Folgefonna, Hardanger Fjord and Røldal (a ski resort with the deepest snow in Europe, www.roldal.com), it offers many activities such as hiking to the popular destinations Trolltunga and Preikestolen, ice climbing, biking, canoeing or river gorging. But the most recent addition to the list of activities is the TyssoViaFerrata – in the footsteps of the ‘Rallar’ (navvies). “It opened 31 May this year and I can really recommend it,” says Jostein Soldal, manager at OpplevOdda. It takes you back to the impressive building process of the famous power station Tysso 1 in 1906. Starting at the Norwegian Museum of Hydro Power and Industry (www.nvim.no), the climb is not only an historical journey through the hard work of the navvies, but also a lesson in the importance of water in shaping a society. “There is plenty to do here and it is easy to access from the many nice hotels in the area,” says Jostein.

One of them is Hotel Ullensvang, established in 1846 and still run by the Utne family in its fifth generation. The historic hotel is situated in Lofthus on the eastern shore of the Sørfjorden, a branch of Hardangerfjord. It was here that Edvard Grieg found inspiration for much of his famous work during his regular visits (his original hut is still kept in the hotel garden). “So many artists have been inspired by this spectacular landscape throughout the years and we hope that our guests will feel the same,” says Managing Director Barbara Zanoni Utne. Situated right on the waterfront, it is an excellent starting point for various excursions. As a first class style resort, it offers many in- and outdoor sport activities, such as tennis courts, rowing boats, golf simulator, boat trips and even its own little sandy beach. For the more peaceful traveller, it is simply a relaxing experience for body and soul. Evenings can be enjoyed in the elegant restaurant “Zanoni”, with a beautiful view over the fjord and Folgefonna, and if you still have energy left there is dancing to live music six nights a week.

Deep inside the innermost part of the Hardangerfjord, almost at the point where you cannot get any further, is Quality Hotel & Resort Vøringfoss, the “white pearl” of Eidfjord. Apart from having simply spectacular views, you have the majestic Hardangervidda right on your doorstep, and just around the corner is Norway’s most famous waterfall Vøringsfossen. You can also visit the famous Kjeåsen mountain farm, situated like an eagle’s nest on the steep mountainside – if you fancy driving five kilometres, half of which are through a black tunnel. “The location offers fantastic opportunities,” says Managing Director Arnvid Johansen.  “Especially since we work a lot with the multi-activity company Flat Earth (www.flatearth.no).” But you do not have to go to extremes to stay at the hotel. You can simply relax on the verandah overlooking the Fjord and enjoy a bite to eat from one of the two restaurants, offering fresh and locally sourced food. And why not visit its own art gallery afterwards, displaying the work of the famous Norweigan National Romantic painter Nils Bergslien.

The popularity of the whole Hardanger area is increasing year by year, with visitors from all over the world. So perhaps it is time to skip the crowded beach this year and steer your holiday northeast, especially since it is less than two hours to fly. Like the Hardanger locals say: “time to explore.”

Fact Box:

Hotel Ullensvang: www.hotel-ullensvang.no

Quality Hotel & Resort Vøringsfoss: www.voringfoss.no

OpplevOdda: www.opplevodda.com

For more general information visit www.hardangerfjord.com

How to get here: Fly Norwegian Airlines or Scandinavian Airlines to Bergen all year round.

Norway may be best known by ski-enthusiasts for its majestic snow-covered peaks, but under the summer sun the frosty cliffs turn up the charm and melt away, not only most of the snow, but any doubt about Norway’s qualities outside the skiing season as well.

One way of exploring this is through the small travel organiser Fjellferie (mountain vacation), which offers active vacations that will both give you a unique experience and a workout to bring you into shape for the rest of the year.

Trekking through the mountains

Fjellferie, which was set up by owner Knut Koren in 1982, simply specialises in safe ways to enjoy Southern Norway’s nature, be it in the summer or winter, on bicycles, foot, skis or in a car. Some of the most popular tours are the guided trekking tours in the areas of Hallingdal and Jotunheimen. “What is unique about this kind of vacation is that it brings people closer to nature but in a safe way and with comfortable accommodation,” says Koren. “Our two main hiking tours are Hallingdal, which is the most popular, and Jotunheimen which is the largest mountain area in Norway.”

During the walks, the hikers can enjoy impressive landscapes, mostly above tree level, while their luggage gets a lift to the next destination, a comfortable hotel. “The area we go through has a lot of small lakes and old summer farms spread out. It is very charming,” says Koren.

The treks both last a week but are also available in shorter bits to fit any vacation length – and fitness level. For the ones who are really eager to get those legs moving, the Hallingdal route can be extended by an extra three days which will bring you to Sognefjorden and enable you to enjoy the particularly beautiful scenery at Norway’s Fjords. And if ten days are not enough, of course you can always add more. “I had one German lady from Berlin at 76, she did both routes in two weeks, but of course some people are more fit than others,” says Koren.

Most participants on the tours are a bit younger though and typically range between 35 and 70.

Enjoying it on your own

Actually you do not have to walk at all to get a taste of what Norway is all about. Fjellferie also arranges “fly and drive” vacations in which you take a self-guided tour around the area in your own car. “On the fly and drive tour we provide people with accommodation in chalets with kitchen and all necessary equipment, and supply very detailed maps and descriptions of the area.”

These tours can also be combined with self-guided hiking tours where the travelers are equipped with maps with the different routes. They, too, are very detailed and no-one will be lost, promises Koren: “They get very accurate information on how to find their way and I am available on my mobile all the time if anything should happen.”

All the other ways to get out there

Another way to explore the beauty of Norway is by bike; something which Fjellferie can organize in a way similar way to the car tours, only with possible luggage transportation included. Also, if you are a group of up to 16 people, you can have a bus tour especially designed for your needs. “We can put together all the items for a successful tour of Norway, tailor-made for your group,” says Koren. The last possibility is to have Fjellferie commission a horseback tour for you or, of course, if you really do not want to depart from Norway’s frosty winter image, wait a couple of months and join one of the cross-country skiing tours.

For more information visit: www.fjellferie.no

By Anna Maria Espsäter

Founded as early as 1070, Bergen, the second largest city in Norway, has long been one of the country’s most important centres for trade, shipping and culture. The old Hanseatic wharf of Bryggen is a UNESCO World Heritage Site; some of Norway’s most stunning fjord landscape is only a short hop away; and this summer will see the likes of Coldplay and Bruce Springsteen take to the stage here. Bergen is the happening place to be!

Many nationalities have come to Bergen over the centuries – some to visit, some to make this place their home – and the city has an international vibe, perhaps even more so than the capital, Oslo. The German influence is evident in the old Hanseatic quarter and the city’s location by the sea gives it a laid-back feel. A sense of history is very palpable here and historical walks through old Bergen are one of the best ways to experience the city.

Easily accessible city life

Bergen’s centre is compact and stroller-friendly, its cobbled streets and alleyways perfect for exploring at leisure on foot. For those wanting to give their legs a rest, a boat trip around the harbour is another popular way of getting to grips with Bergen. The maritime heritage is well documented in several fascinating museums, from the Maritime to the Hanseatic Museum, or for something old-style, but very much alive and kicking, check out the Fish Market, still a buzzing hive of activity.

Bergen is also the birth place of Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg and his home, Troldhaugen, is now open as a museum. Every summer sees the “Grieg in Bergen” festival take over the city for almost 10 continuous weeks, when Bergen celebrates its most famous son. The city may appear to have one foot in the past, always in touch with its history, but culturally it’s firmly forward-looking, with a strong innovative vibe and it’s no coincidence that world-class stars on the music scene have been enticed to play Bergen this summer.

Nature on the doorstep

The great outdoors is never far away and nature forms just as important a part in the everyday lives of Bergensers as culture does. The proximity of the Norwegian fjords is perhaps Bergen’s biggest draw, with spectacular scenery right on the city’s doorstep. It’s possible to take a cruise to one of the nearby fjords, including the two most famous, Hardanger fjord and Sogne fjord. Another option is simply to hop on one of the many scheduled fjord ferries that ply the waters, some of which can accommodate cars if you want to take your own vehicle and explore further afield.

The area is also excellent for hiking during the summer months. A lovely, but somewhat strenuous hike, can be completed between Mount Ulriken and Mount Fløyen. Although it’s possible to first trek to the top of the former, an easier way is to take the cable car up to Mount Ulriken and just hike between the two mountains. Some four hours should suffice to get from one to the other and then there’s another handy cable car taking you back down again. The views across the town and fjords are breath-taking and well worth what can sometimes be a sweaty ramble in the height of summer. Although Bergen isn’t always blessed with good weather, summers can get surprisingly warm.

A rewarding culinary treat

After indulging in such energetic pursuits, there’s nothing like settling down to a nice slap-up meal as a reward. Norwegian fish and seafood are justly famous and the restaurants in Bergen serve up some of the finest in the country. Cod, salmon, herring, brisling and lyed fish, accompanied by potatoes, pickled cucumbers, rye bread, all of it washed down with the potent tipple aquavit and you’re all set up for the following day’s activities.

Factbox:

For further information: www.visitbergen.com and www.visitnorway.com.

Information about Ulriken cable car: www.bergen-guide.com.

For flights from London Gatwick to Bergen: www.norwegian.no.

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